Pyrography nibs

spoon point

Spoon Point For Shading

The spoon points are shaped like a tiny teaspoon. The bowl of the spoon can be used for soft shading effects and the edge of the spoon is useful for texturing. I use this point to shade in large areas of black. It is a lot quicker and you get a smooth texture.


Points For Feathering & Fine Work

These points are made by hammering a loop flat and cutting and filing it to make a small blade shape. They are excellent for producing fine clear lines. They can also be used flat on the wood for some shading effects. This is the nib that I use for my pyrography work.



The heat of this point is strong enough to "toast" the wood when held a short distance from the surface, giving a soft shading effect and can shade large areas quickly. It is also excellent for 'gouging' deep lines into the wood. I've created many signs using this point, however you get a lot of smoke and it makes your eyes run!

puss in boots

Burning On Leather

Leather is still another material for working in pyrography. The pen works extremely well on light coloured vegetable tanned leather. I really enjoy working on leather as you can get some wonderful tones from lights to darks and it also details very well.

With leather as with wood, it is important to work on a clean surface. Leather for pyrographic work should be dry and unfinished.

I always draw out my outline first on a really low setting, between 0 - 1. I then begin to shade in the areas gradually turning up the temperature, to achieve my desired effect. But remember if you make a mistake that is it! There is no turnng back, however if you are really careful and have not burned to deeply it is possible to remove your errors with a scapel. But this sometimes also results in disaster as it 'scuffs' the leather.
*Many thanks to Roy Child for the pictures and pyro advice.